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Thread: Water / water drops in the DS-500 without rain ?!

  1. #11
    Hey Stephen,

    thank you so much for your prompt assistance! At weekend i am back at home and i will check my DS-500 (after your new instructions)

    Cheers, Björn!



    PS: Currently, we ve 15 cm snow
    Last edited by shark_attack; 12-06-2012 at 12:56 PM.

  2. #12

    Build #3 Sealing Demo

    Here you go Bjoern, this should be slightly helpful as you re-seal the light. (Note that this does not apply to build #1 or build #2 lights).

  3. #13

    A few more Build #3 re-sealing tips

    For anyone with build 1 or 2 lights, this does not apply.

    Based on my testing here with the new Build 3 design, it's very likely that you've also got some condensation inside the electronics cavity as well. So go ahead and remove the four screws for the lid and inspect the inside of the case. If you see any water, then blow out any large drops and use a hairdryer to speed up the drying/evaporation process for the inside of the cavity. After you're convinced that the inside is nice and dry, go ahead and connect the battery and turn it on level 3 for 5 minutes or so, then turn it off.

    Using a similar technique to what you saw in the video with the hobby brush and silicon grease, paint a liberal amount around the top of the o-ring that seals the lid to the case. Next, carefully tuck the wires from the switch down into the case as you set the lid back in position (you just don't want to pinch the switch wires in the process). After applying a small amount of medium (non-permanent) threadlock to the screws, go ahead and re-install the screws, being careful not to over tighten. I suspect that the anodization process created enough friction in the treaded holes that you can probably get away without the threadlock. Just come back after several rides and make sure the screws are staying tight.

    OK, NOW you're ready to try the re-sealing process from the video.

    I'd like you to also remove the black o-ring around the circumference of the face of the light and apply grease on it like you saw in the video.

    Although it's a PAIN that you're having to even having to mess with this, hopefully it will be somewhat reassuring to see how easily serviced and/or rebuildable the light is. The bottom line is that I was pretty much just being overly sparing with the application of the grease and really did not consider the cold/snow scenario. Hopefully this will get you going again! And if not, of course you know you can always return it to me for the rework.
    Thanks!

  4. #14
    Hi Stephen,

    i am back again... weekend and i stay at home;-) Tomorow, I will test it. And after i decide... Currently, my DS-500 was on for 1 hour with level 4. Hope, all moisture is gone.

    Cheers and a nice evening!

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by shark_attack View Post
    Hi Stephen,

    i am back again... weekend and i stay at home;-) Tomorow, I will test it. And after i decide... Currently, my DS-500 was on for 1 hour with level 4. Hope, all moisture is gone.

    Cheers and a nice evening!
    Did you just run it for an hour without first removing the lens cover? If you're NOT seeing any condensation at room temperature, then this is a good sign, but it's possible that there still may be enough moisture inside the housing to condensate during cold temperatures outside.

    If you ARE seeing condensation at room temperature, then it's very likely that you also have some larger droplets of condensation inside the electronics cavity. In this case, you should go through the entire process that I outlined in Post #13.

    If you did NOT see condensation at room temperature, but you DO see condensation again when running at cold temperatures, then you should ONLY remove the lens cover and lenses, set everything aside and run the light indoors for an hour. Now you should add the silicon grease around the edge of the lenses according to the video and re-install the lens cover and re-test in the cold temperatures.

    Look forward to hearing how it goes!

  6. #16
    Ok Stephen,

    thanks for help... THANKS THANKS THANKS !!! Your support is so goooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooood. Better than a german trader. Hats off! So, after the 1 hour burning test, i drive in the city with level 5 for 45 min (yes level 5 because of the temp. - we ve -10 °C). After my ride i saw little water drops outside the rings, and comparatively few inside the ring. Look at my pictures. But it was only 20 % as opposed to the first water problem. So i think for -10 °C its ok. Now, i will turn on the light for more hours at night and test the light outside tomorow... After it i observe the light again and decide what is the next step...





    Good night! Cheers

  7. #17
    Thanks for the pics Bjoern, very helpful.
    Based on what you're telling me and what I'm seeing in the pictures, it does look like you'll need to take the light apart and perform the re-sealing procedure.
    I would do it in this order:

    1. Remove the lens cover. Even after you remove the center screw, it will feel as if it's "stuck." Don't try to pull it straight off, or it will end up popping off violently. Try to first pull up on one of the short sides first to get it to slowly pop off of the main o-ring.

    2. Remove the lenses and set aside in clean location (make a note of the orientation of the elliptical lens). Dry if necessary with a hair dryer.

    3. Remove the main (black) o-ring, apply grease, and re-install (see video), being careful not to touch the LEDs.

    4. Re-install the lenses, being careful to maintain correct alignment of the elliptical lens

    5. Apply the small bead of grease around the edge on the front face of the lenses (as in the video).

    6. Set the lens cover back down over the lenses, and pull it back onto the main o-ring by tightening the main hold-down screw.

    7. Remove the four (4) lid hold down screws and open the case. Run the light on level 3 with the lid off for at least 30 min, and/or blow out with hair-dryer if necessary.

    8. Liberally re-grease the lid o-ring and re-install the lid, taking care not to pinch the switch wires and not over-tighten the lid screws (with medium thread lock if available).

    That should be all you need to do.
    Thanks!

  8. #18
    Morning Stephen, i watched your video... but my new problem is the grease. Because of the o rings i need special grease. So i must look... mh

  9. #19
    Almost bedtime for me!
    Check at your local plumbing supply or hardware stores. I found mine at Lowes (home hardware store) in the plumbing section for about $3.

  10. #20
    Good Morning (Germany 11.00 AM),

    i had a good grease from my dad, special grease which dont pit rubber or plastic...



    Open - First part Off

    Open - First part Off

    Open - First part on

    Heating - to air

    LAST WORDS: Hope it helps!?

    Cheers!
    Last edited by shark_attack; 12-08-2012 at 05:46 AM.

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